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MAKES 6 SERVINGS - 6 large ar tichokes 1 lemon, halved |
Artichokes lend themselves to stuffing. You'il find them filled with canned tuna in Abruzzo, sausage meat in Calabria, rice in the Veneto, and ricotta and salami in Sicily. This filling, with minor variations, is popular throughout southern Italy. |
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Working with 1 artichoke at a time, trim the stem even with the artichoke bottom, peel and chop the stem, and set aside. Snap off the small, tough leaves around the base. Cut off the top 3/4 inch (2 cm) of the leaves with a serrated knife or chef's knife to remove the prickly tips. Gently pry the center leaves open and, using a small spoon, scoop out the prickly choke and discard. Repeat with the remaining artichokes. Rub the cut sides of each artichoke with a lemon half as you trim them to prevent the artichoke from darkening.
Buon appetito ! |
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MAKES 4-6 SERVINGS - 3 tablespoons unsalted butter |
Native to North America, lerusalem artichokes were originally dubbed girasole, Italian for "sunflower," by early Europeans, a name that evolved into Jerusalem in the English-speaking world. The moniker is apt, for the tubers come from a type of sunflower that is a dose relative of the common garden sunflower. Also known as sunchokes, Jerusalem artichokes have a ;weet, nutty flavor reminiscent of artichokes, though the resemblance stops there. |
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Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400°F (200°C). Grease the bottom of an oval gratin dish about 12 inches (30 cm) long with 1 tablespoon of the butter.
Buon appetito ! |
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MAKE 4-6 SERVINGS - 2 lemons |
In spring and again in fall, artichokes fill the markets in Lazio, and Romans eat them every chance they get. Here, small, tender artichokes are lightly cloaked in bread crumbs before they are fried, yieiding a crisp result. A squeeze of fresh lemon juice lifts the sweet artichoke flavor. |
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Fill a large bowl three-fourths full with cold water. Cut 1 lemon in half and squeeze the juice of both halves into the water. Working with 1 artichoke at a time, cut off the top 1/2 - 1/3 inch (12 mm-2 cm) of the leaves with a paring knife to remove the prickly tips. Pull off all the tough, dark green outer leaves until you reach the tender, pale inner leaves. Cut a thin slice off the base of the stem, then peel off the tough, dark outer flesh around the base of the leaves and along the length of the stem, leaving the stem attached. Cut the artichoke in half or quarters lengthwise, and then cut out the fuzzy choke, if any, at the base of the leaves. Drop the wedges into the lemon water. Repeat with the remaining artichokes. Let stand for about 10 minutes. Buon appetito! |
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The food of Lazio is a culinary bridge between Umbria and Tuscany to the north and Campania to the south: hearty cooking of home and farm that has centered, cince the days of ancient Rome, around lamb, pork, bread, cheese, seasonal vegetables, and olive oil, with fish from Lake Bolsena and seafood from the Tyrrhenian Sea added to the mix. The cooking of the capita!, much of which developed in trattorias, osterie (neighborhood eateries), and restaurants, is a cuisine in its own right. Roman food is bold, flavorful, and resourceful, making the most of every ingredient, from variety meats and vegetables (especially artichokes and greens) to dried pasta, including spaghetti and bucatini.
Variety Meats In the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, workers in the slaughterhouses of Rome's Testaccio district would be given, as part of their pay, the parts left over after carcasses were quartered. These parts became known as il quinto quarto, the fifth quarter. Neighborhood trattorias and home cooks devised all kinds of inventive uses for them, many of which have become classic Roman specialties, from oxtails and sweetbreads to pajata (milk-fed calf or lamb intestines, stili filled with coagulated milk) and coratella (heart, liver, and lungs cooked together).
Guanciale salt-cured, air-dried pork jowl, used like pancetta
Pasta all'amatriciana sauce of tomatoes and guanciale or pancetta, tossed with bucatini
Tonnarelli cacio e pepe sauce of pecorino and black pepper with square-cut spaghetti Spaghetti alla carbonara spaghetti with eggs, pecorino romano cheese, guanciale or pancetta, and pepper
Gnocchi alla romana disk-shaped dumplings made with semolina flour
Abbacchio milk-fed lamb, often served roasted or stewed
Saltimbocca veal cutlets, layered with sage and prosciutto
Coda alla vaccinara braised oxtails
Artichokes tender local specimens are prepared in a variety of ways, including alla romana (braised) and alla giudia (fried)
Puntarelle type of chicory with long, jagged, arrow-shaped leaves, served as a salad with a dressing of anchovies, garlic, and olive oil
photo: Artichokes are the signature vegetable of Rome, where they liven up the table in winter and spring. They are most often fried or braised, but also star in frittatas and pasta dishes.
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