Easy Italian Recipes

 MAKES 4 SERVINGS

- 1 branzino (sea bass), 1 1/2-2 Ib (750 g-1 kg), cleaned with head and tail intact
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram or oregano
- 7 tablespoons (3 1/2 fI oz/ 105 ml) olive oil
- 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
- Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
- 4 lemon slices
- 2 lb (1 kg) boiling potatoes 2 small fennel bulbs
- 1/2 cup (2 1/2 oz/75 g) Gaeta or other Mediterranean-style black olives

Ligurians feel that if you have a nice fresh fish, you should honor it with a simple preparation and not try to make it look, or taste, like anything else. The absence of sauces and condiments may take some getting used to, but the reward is the subtle flavor and texture of the fish. Here, branzino, or sea bass, is roasted, but striped bass and red snapper are also good prepared this way. Marjoram is typical of Ligurian cooking, but other herbs, such as oregano or rosemary, can be substituted

Preheat an oven to 450°F (230°C). Rinse the fish and pat dry with paper towels. Using a sharp, heavy knife, make slashes on both sides of the fish, cutting down to the bone. In a small bowl, stir together the parsley, marjoram, 4 tablespoons (2 0 oz/60 ml) of the olive oil, and the lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper. Rub the mixture inside the cavity and over the outside of the fish. Tuck the lemon slices inside. Cover and let stand while you prepare the potatoes and fennel.

Peel and slice the potatoes, rinse under cold running water, and pat dry. Place in a bowl. Cut off the stems and feathery leaves from the fennel bulbs and reserve for another use or discard. Cut away and discard any discolored areas of the bulbs. Halve each bulb lengthwise and cut away the tough core. Cut the halves crosswise finto thin slices. Add the fennel slices to the potato slices along with the remaining
3 tablespoons olive oil. Season with salt and pepper, toss well, and then spread the vegetables in a roasting pan large enough to hold the slices in a shallow layer.

Bake until the potatoes and fennel begin to brown, 25-30 minutes. Turn the potatoes, stir in the olives, and piace the fish on top. Continue to bake unti) the fresh is opaque when cut near the bone and the potatoes and fennel are tender, 20-30 minutes longer.
Transfer the fish to a warmed platter. Surround with the potatoes, fennel, and olives. Serve at once.

Buon appetito !

 MAKES 6 servings

For the gnocchi
- 1 lb (500 g) small baking potatoes, unpeeled, preferably organic
- 1 large egg
- 1 teaspoon sea salt
- 3/4 cup (4 oz/125 g) ali-purpose (plain) flour, or as needed
For the sauce
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 oz (60 g) pancetta, chopped
- 1 small red onion, chopped
- 1/4 Ib (125 g) fresh chanterelle mushrooms, brushed clean, trimmed, and sliced
- Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
- 2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) chicken stock, or as needed
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley
- 1/2 cup (2 oz/60 g) grated pecorino romano cheese

Gnocchi are made primarily from potatoes or semolina, with potatoes favored in the north and semolina in the south, and the dough can be flavored with everything from spinach and pumpkin to ricotta. Here, potato gnocchi are topped with an unusual quick sauce of wild mushrooms, pancetta, and onion, but they may also be se -ved with a simple tornato sauce, a meat ragù, or even br mned butter.

To make the gnocchi, in a saucepan, combine the potatoes with water to cover, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook until the potatoes are tender, about 40 minutes.

Drain the potatoes and let cool slightly. Peel the potatoes and then pass them through a ricer or a food mill fitted with the fine disk held over a rimmed baking sheet. Spread the potatoes out on the sheet and let cool. In a small bowl, lightly beat the egg with the salt. Drizzle over the potatoes, then sprinkle the 3/4 cup flour over the egg. Mix together gently by hand, being careful not to overwork the dough, until the flour is incorporated. Scrape the dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead a few times just unti) smooth, adding a little more flour if needed to arrive at a dough that is not sticky yet is stili moist. Set the dough aside, and scrape the work surface clean, discarding any bits of dough.

Lightly dust 2 rimmed baking sheets and the work surface. Cut the dough into 4 pieces, cover 3 pieces with an overturned bowl, and put the remaining piece on the floured surface. Using your palms, l'oli the dough into a long rope about 1/2 inch (12 mm) in diameter. Cut the rope crosswise into 1/2-inch (12-mm) pieces. Place the gnocchi onto the prepared pans, being careful they don't touch. Repeat with the remaining 3 dough pieces.

To make the sauce, in a large frying pan over medium heat, heat the oil and pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, unti] the pancetta begins to turn golden, about 5 minutes. Add the onion and sauté unti] softened, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, unti) the mushrooms are tender, about 5 minutes longer. Remove the pan from the heat while you cook the gnocchi.

Bring a large pot three-fourths fui] of water to a rolling boil. Add 2 tablespoons salt, and then drop in the gnocchi a few at a time so they do not lump together. Cook, stirring once or twice, unti) they rise to the surface, about 3 minutes.

When the gnocchi are almost ready, return the frying pan with the sauce to medium heat, add the stock, and bring to a simmer. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the gnocchi to the sauce. Raise the heat to high and cook for 1 minute, stirring very gently, Divide the gnocchi among warmed bowls and sprinkle with the parsley cheese, and some freshly ground pepper. Serve at once

Buon appetito !

 MAKES 4-6 servings

For the pesto
- 1 1/2 cups (11/2 oz/45 g) lightly packed fresh basil leaves
- 3 tablespoons pine nuts
- 1 clove garlic, coarsely chopped
- Salt
- 1/3 cup (3 fl oz/80 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
- 1/4 Ib (125 g) Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated
- 1/2 Ib (250 g) small red potatoes, peeled and cut into slices about 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick
- 1/2 Ib (250 g) young,
- slender green beans, stem ends trimmed
- 1 Ib (500 g) penne, ziti, or trenette
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature

At its best, pesto is a beautiful emerald green and stili has a bit of texture. In Liguria, it is traditionally paired with trenette, a strand pasta available fresh or dried, but it also goes well with dried pasta in other shapes, such as penne or ziti. Green beans and new potatoes are classic partners, making this a perfect dish for early summer when the vegetables and basil are at their peak.

To make the pesto, in a large mortar, combine the basil, pine nuts, garlic, and teaspoon salt. Using a pestle, and working in a circular motion, grind the ingredients together until a dense, thick green paste forms. This can take severa! minutes. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil while stirring continuously with the pestle until a thick, flowing sauce forms. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the cheese. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Alternatively, in a food processor or blender, combine the basi!, pine nuts, garlic, and 1/2 teaspoon salt and process until finely chopped. Then, with the motor running, pour in the oil in a slow, steady stream and process until a smooth, flowing sauce forms. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the cheese. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Set aside.

Bring a large pot three-fourths full of water to a rolling boil and add about 2 tablespoons salt. Add the potatoes and green beans and cook unti! tender, about 5 minutes. Using a large slotted spoon, transfer the potatoes and beans to a large, warmed serving bowl. Cover the bowl lightly with aluminum foil to keep the vegetables warm.

Bring the water back to a rolling boil, add the penne, stir well, and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente, according to the package directions. Scoop out and reserve about 2 ladlefuls of the cooking water, then drain the pasta.
Add the drained pasta to the bowl with the vegetables and then add the pesto. Stir and toss until the pasta and vegetables are evenly coated with the sauce, adjusting the consistency with some of the cooking water if needed. Add the butter and toss to coat evenly. Serve at once.

Buon appetito!

 MAKES 6 servings

- 1 oz (30 g) dried porcini mushrooms
- 1/4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) olive oil
- 1 yellow onion, chopped
- 2 carrots, chopped
- 1 celery stalk, chopped
- 1 bunch Swiss chard, tough stems removed and chopped
- 3 Yukon gold or other boiling potatoes, peeled and chopped
- 1 1/2 cups (8 oz/250 g) peeled, seeded, and diced butternut squash
- 4 fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped, or
- 2 cups (12 oz/375 g) seeded and chopped canned plum (Roma) tomatoes, with juice
- 2 cups (8 oz/250 g) fresh borlotti or other shelling beans, or 2 cups (14 oz 440 g) drained cooked beans
- 1 piece Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese rind (optional)
- Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
- 1 cup (31/2 oz/105 g) macaroni, tubetti, or other small pasta shape
- 1/4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) pesto, homemade (page 273) or purchased
- Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese for serving

The best versions of this soup are made with fresh seasonal vegetables. Don't hesitate to add or substitute cabbage, green beans, eggplant (aubergine), cauliflower, peas, zucchini (courgette), leeks, or whatever else looks good at the market or that you might have on hand. After long, slow cooking, the soup should be thick and the vegetables soft. In Liguria, minestrone is eaten in different ways: sometimes a dollop of fragrant pesto is added to the hot soup, sometimes the soup is served at room temperature, and sometimes rice is used instead of pasta. Simmering the rind from a wedge of Parmigiano-Reggiano in the soup imparts a rich, deep flavor.

In a bowl, combine the mushrooms and 2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) warm water and let soak for 30 minutes. Drain the mushrooms, reserving the liquid. Strain the liquid through a paper coffee filter or a fine-mesh lieve lined with dampened cheesecloth (muslin) and set aside. Rinse the mushrooms well under cold running water, paying special attention to the stem pieces where bits of soil sometimes cling to the base. Drain well, chop, and set aside.
In a large saucepan over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the onion, carrots, and celery and cook, stirring frequently, until tender and golden, 10-15 minutes. Stir in the mushrooms, chard, potatoes, squash, tomatoes, beans, and cheese rind (if using). Add the mushroom liquid and enough water to cover the vegetables by about 1/2 inch (12 mm), bring to a simmer, and reduce the heat to low. Season with salt and pepper and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the soup has thickened and the vegetables are soft, about 11/2 hours, adding water as needed if the soup becomes too thick.
Add the pasta and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the pasta is al dente, about 15 minutes. If the cheese rind has been used, you can remove it from the pot, cut it into small pieces, and return it to the soup or discard it.

Buon appetito!

 MAKE 4 SERVINGS

- 1 Ib (500 g) salt cod fillet
- 1 Ib (500 g) Yukon gold or other boiling potatoes
- Sea salt
- 1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced
- 1/2 cup (2 1/2 oz/75 g) pitted brine-cured black olives, coarsely chopped
- 1/4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) extravirgin olive oil
- 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
- 1 teaspoon minced garlic
- 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste
- 1/4 cup (1/4 oz/7 g) coarsely chopped fresh fiat-leaf (Italian) parsley leaves
- Lemon wedges

Salt cod, known as baccalà in Italian, originated in Scandinavia. !t gained popularity in Italy at a time when fresh fish was costly and difficult to transport, solving the problem of what to eat on the many fast days of the Catholic calendar. Today, of course, fresh fish is readily available, but the ltalians stili enjoy baccalà prepared in a variety ways, including in this antipasto salad.

Rinse the fish under cool running water, then cut into 4 pieces. Place the pieces in a nonreactive bowl and add cold water to cover. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 24 hours, changing the water 4 or 5 times. When ready, the cod will have lightened in color and look slightly puffy.
The next day, in a saucepan, combine the potatoes with salted cold water to cover generously and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes, let cool slightly, and then peel and cut into slices.
Meanwhile, drain the salt cod. Pour water to a depth of about 2 inches (5 cm) into a large frying pan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, add the salt cod, and simmer until tender when tested with a fork, 5-7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the cod from the pan and briefly pat dry on paper towels.
Remove any errant bits of skin from the cod and arrange the pieces on a serving platter, breaking up the fish into large chunks. Scatter the potato and onion slices and the olives over the fish. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil and lemon juice, and then whisk in the garlic and red pepper flakes. Drizzle the dressing over the salad. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and red pepper flakes. Garnish with the parsley and serve warm or at room temperature with the lemon wedges.

Buon appetito!