| Apparently the origins of this pie lie in the Spanish calzon, since the Bourbons ruled southern Italy as well as Spain for centuries. It is often served as part of antipasti in Puglia or eaten as a hot snack from bakeries. I was shown how to make it by a lady named Alessia who lives in a beautiful masseria (a traditional farmhouse) near Bari. Her incredibly thin pastry is made with wine, which gives off a wonderful aroma as it is heated. The Pugliesi use the local sponsale, a type of onion that is more bulbous than a spring onion and has a milder flavour. You can sometimes find them in the UK, sold as 'continental onions'. I have used a mixture of spring onions or continental onions and leeks, which prove to be equally delicious. The best olives — if you can find them — are Taggiasca; otherwise buy small whole black olives and stone them yourself. |
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Grease a loose-based 25cm flan tin with butter, dust with flour then tap out the excess. Make the pastry by mixing the ingredients in a bowl with a large spoon or plastic dough scraper. Use your hands to bring the mixture into a ball. Collect the bits from around the bowl with the dough, then tip it onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead until well amalgamated and evenly coloured. Wrap in clingfilm and chill in the fridge for at least 20 minutes or overnight. For the filling, fry the onions and leeks in a large frying pan with the oil, salt and pepper. After a couple of minutes, add the water and continue to cook over a medium heat for about 10-15 minutes. When the excess water has gone, add the sultanas and olives. Stir well to combine and remove from the heat. Stir in the Parmesan, adjust the seasoning as necessary and set aside. Thinly roll out one-third of the pastry into a circle on a well-floured surface. Keep rolling until it is just 1mm thick (you should be able to blow underneath and see it lift off the surface). Place the tin upside down on the pastry and draw around it with the tip of a knife. This is the pie lid. Roll out the remaining pastry to 1mm thick and line the tin, allowing a 3cm overhang. Trim with scissors. Pour in the leek filling and cover with the pastry lid. Roll and twist the overhanging pastry inwards over the lid to seal. Finish by making two holes in the centre with a sharp knife to allow steam to escape. Bake in the preheated oven for 35-45 minutes, until the top is golden. Leave to cool. Drizzle a little extra olive oil over the top and serve at room temperature. |
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Serves 8
FOR THE FILLING |
This is a completely different way of making bread, with a very wet dough. I learnt to make this in Puglia from a couple of women who lived near Bari. They taught me to make my hand into the shape of a duck's foot, as if I had a webbed hand. 'Flap, flap, flap', they told me until sweat formed on my brow; I was only allowed to stop flapping when bubbles appeared on the surface of the dough.
Serves 10
1 medium potato (about 150g), peeled and roughly chopped
500g strong white bread flour or '00' flour
1 level teaspoon salt
500ml tepid water (use the potato cooking water)
25g fresh yeast
1/2 teaspoon sugar
3 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for greasing
FOR THE TOPPING
olives, oregano, cherry tomatoes, etc.
This is usually made in a large, thin circular tin about 28cm across and 5cm deep, but I have also made it successfully in a thin, rectangular roasting tin. First cut a circle of baking parchment to line the base.
Put a small saucepan of water on to boil and put the potato in to cook. Meanwhile, mix the flour and the salt together in a large mixing bowl. Once the potato is cooked, drain but reserve the a measuring jug and top it up to 500m1, keeping the temperature of the water tepid.
Mix the yeast and sugar into this water with your fingers until it is completely blended and no lumps remain. Put the warm potato through a ricer, or mash with a fork, and add to the flour mixture. Add the tepid water and, making your hand into the shape of a webbed foot, hit the dough and pull it up one side of the bowl. The higher you pull the dough, the more air will be incorporated and the quicker this form of kneading will be. Use the other hand to hold the bowl steady against your stomach. If necessary, add a little more tepid water from the tap to obtain a dough with the consistency of wet porridge.
Repeat this motion, picking up speed as you go. It becomes tiring, but you will see the air getting trapped in the dough. Stop to rest every few minutes and watch the dough. Once you see bubbles rise to the surface and pop it is ready.
Pour half the oil into the lined tin and ensure it is greased generously all over. Pour the focaccia dough into the tin and pat the rest of the oil over the surface of the dough with your fingers so that it is covered in oil. This prevents a crust from forming while it rises. Leave to rise in a warm, draught-free spot for about 1 1/2 hours, or until the surface is covered in bubbles.
Meanwhile preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6. Once the dough is risen, add your chosen topping. Place the tin in the oven and bake for around 50-60 minutes, or until the bread is crispy and golden brown. Buon appetito!
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MAKES 4 SERVINGS - 1 head cauliflower, about 11/2 Ib (750 g) |
In this recipe, mild cauliflower is the perfect foil for savory olives and tangy lemon zest. You can substitute Romanesco cauliflower, sometimes called Romanesco broccoli, for the white cauliflower. These eyecatching members of the big cabbage family are a beautiful shade of lime green and have cone-shaped florets that look like exotic seashells. They are slightly sweeter and more tender than white cauliflower. You'll find Romanesco cauliflower in the market from late September through November. |
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Trim the cauliflower and cut it into 2-inch (5-cm) florets.
Buon appetito ! |
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MAKES 4 SERVINGS - 1 cup (6 oz/185 g) cherry tomatoes, stemmed and halved |
A sformato is a souffle like dish often made with vegetables. Sformati are often baked in ring molds and sometimes in ramekins, but here a simple ceramic baking dish is used. You can also serve this dish in smaller portions as an antipasto, or it can be the centerpiece of a light lunch, accompanied with marinated olives, salami, and a green salad.. |
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Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350°F (180°C). Lightly brush a rimmed baking sheet with oil.
Buon appetito ! |
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MAKES 4-6 servings - 1/3 cup (3 fI oz/80 ml) plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil |
Broccoli rabe, also known as rapini and cime di rapa, has a pleasantly bitter flavor that is an appealing contrast to the sweet pork sausages in the scuce. As you toss, both ingredients become trapped in the holiows of the ear-shaped pasta, making every bite wonderfully flavorful. Prepare this dish in cool-weather months, when broccoli rabe is in season. |
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In a frying pan over medium-low heat, warm the 1 tablespoon olive oil. Add the bread crumbs and stir to coat them with the oil. Season lightly with salt and cook, stirring often, until the crumbs are an even, deep golden brown, about 10 minutes. Pour onto a plate and set aside to cool. Buon appetito! |
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