Easy Italian Recipes

 MAKES 4-6 servings

- 6 oz (185 g) pancetta or bacon, preferably at least 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick, chopped
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
- 1 Ib (500 g) spaghetti
- 1/4 cup (1 oz/30 g) grated pecorino romano cheese
- 1/4 cup (1 oz/30 g) grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
- 2 large whole eggs, plus 1 large egg yolk, at room temperature

The origin of this Roman dish has long been in dispute. Was it invented by local carbonari (charcoal makers)? Or was it a practical way to use bacon and egg rations during World War II? Whatever its origin, the success of this simple dish is all about technique: you must mix the raw eggs into the hot spaghetti until they are no longer liquid but have not yet formed curds.

In a large frying pan over medium-low heat, combine the pancetta and olive oil and heat slowly until much of the fat is rendered and the meat has browned a little, about 15 minutes. Leave the meat and fat in the pan and cover to keep warm.
Bring a large pot three-fourths full of water to a rolling boil and add about 2 tablespoons salt. Add the spaghetti, stir well, and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente, according to the package directions.
Meanwhile, in a bowl, mix together the cheeses. In another bowl, whisk together the whole eggs and egg yolk until well blended. Stir the cheese mixture and several grinds of pepper into the eggs.
From this point on, timing and temperature are crucial. Put a large serving bowl in the sink and set a colander in the serving bowl. When the spaghetti is ready, pour it into the colander, so that its cooking water will warm the serving bowl. Grab the colander quickly out of the water and shake a couple of times. Toss the drained spaghetti into the pan with the pancetta and stir a couple of times to coat the pasta with the fat. Being careful not to burn your fingers, empty the hot water from the serving bowl, reserving about 2 ladlefuls. Transfer the pasta to the warmed bowl, add the egg mixture, and stir and toss vigorously with a wooden spoon to coat the pasta evenly. Adjust the consistency of the sauce with some of the cooking water if needed. Divide among warmed plates and serve at once.

Buon appetito!