Home Recipes Fish main dishes - Pasta or Risotto Displaying items by tag: pane
Displaying items by tag: pane
Sunday, 11 April 2010 17:41

Roll Shaping

Mafalda concertina rolls


To make mafalda rolls, roll out a long sausage of dough and bend it back and forth in a concertina pattern. Fold the last length along the middle of the folds to secure them in place. Scatter over some sesame seeds. If you find they are not sticking, lightly brush a little water over the surface before putting the seeds on.

Plait masterclass


Make one long sausage of dough around 30cm in length. Make another around 60cm in length. Secure the longer length at its halfway point around the top of the shorter length. Now use the three lengths to make a plait of dough. Secure at the bottom with a little water, if necessary, to hold the plait in place.

Twists


Roll one long sausage-shaped length of dough. Fold it in half and then hold it in the air and give a twist. The ends will spin and twist around one another. Secure at the bottom with a little water, if necessary.

Published in Masterclasses
Sunday, 11 April 2010 17:37

Spinach and Ricotta Rolls

 Makes 10 spiral rolls

1 quantity of Quick White Bread dough
100g cooked spinach, thoroughly squeezed dry 200g ricotta
25g Parmesan, finely grated
grated nutmeg, to taste
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Follow the instructions for the Quick White Bread until the dough is shaped. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6 and oil a large baking tray.


Make the stuffing by combining the ingredients in a bowl, seasoning to taste. Roll the dough into a rectangle lcm thick. Spread the spinach mixture over the dough and roll it up into a log shape. Cut into ten.

Transfer the rolls to the tray, making sure they have enough space around them to increase in size. Set aside in a warm place, covered with a tea-towel, until doubled in size, about 45 minutes. Bake for 20-25 minutes, or until golden and cooked through.

Published in Pizza & Bread
Sunday, 11 April 2010 17:15

Rustic White Bread & Quick White Bread

Rustic White Bread with Madre

This big rustic white loaf, often referred to as the pagnotta, or 'loaf', is found in various guises across Italy. It takes a while to prepare since the dough is left to rise, and is reshaped and moulded four times over 24 hours. Start it in the evening and leave the dough to rise overnight. The dough relies solely on the natural ferment in the madre. It should be full of holes, have a wonderful acidity and a chewy, crispy crust. After making this loaf you will appreciate the difference between artisan loaves and industrially made white bread.

Makes 1 large loaf

350g madre
500g strong white flour
3 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons honey
300ml tepid water

Mix the flour and the salt in a bowl. Add the honey to the water and blend with a small whisk or your hands. Pour into the flour and add the madre. Using your hands or a plastic dough scraper, bring the ingredients together until you have a loose ball of dough. Transfer to a lightly floured work surface and knead for 10 minutes, until smooth. Try to use additional flour sparingly. Put the dough in a floured bowl and cover with a tea-towel. Let it rise for an hour.
Re-knead the dough and form it into a ball; leave to rest for another hour. Repeat this process once more. Put the dough in a basket lined with a loose-weave linen tea-towel sprinkled with flour. Cover with a cloth and leave in a cool place or the fridge to rise for 14-15 hours. It is ready when doubled in size and it springs back slowly to the touch.
In the last hour, preheat the oven to 240°C/475°F/gas mark 9. Put in a baking tray upside down. When the dough is ready, gently turn it out onto a pala or baking tray sprinkled with semolina. Spray the oven with water. Slash the top of the dough with a cross and slide it onto the hot inverted tray. Spray the oven with water and quickly close the door to trap the steam inside. Bake for 10 minutes, then turn the oven down to 220°C/425°F/gas mark 7 and bake for 25-30 minutes. If it begins to burn after 25 minutes and is not cooked through, turn the oven down to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. The loaf is ready when light to the touch and hollow-sounding if tapped on the base.

Quick White Bread

This is a quick white dough without a biga or madre. It can be used as a basic dough for the Spinach and Ricotta Rolls, the Roasted Vegetable Rolls and the Walnut and Olive Breads. One of our chefs, Chef, used to make a large batch of this dough and leave it in the fridge overnight to rise. He would then turn it into seeded rolls, focaccia, pizza for the staff lunch and grissini. By leaving it to rise slowly, he ensured the dough developed its flavour through slow fermentation rather than adding a starter. The simplicity of this recipe is that it has one rising after being kneaded and shaped. This gives a close-grained loaf, If you have time and prefer a more open grain, leave to rise in a bowl for an hour or two or overnight like Chef, then shape and allow to prove again.

2 teaspoons salt
500g strong white flour lOg fresh yeast
350ml tepid water

Mix the salt into the flour on a board and make a well in the centre. Blend the yeast into the water with a small whisk or your hands, then pour it into the well in the mound of flour. Bring the dough together with your fingers or a dough scraper and collect it into a ball.


Try to use additional flour sparingly; a good dough should be as wet as possible without being impossible to handle. Establish a pattern of pushing the dough out into a long oval, then fold it back towards you, trapping air inside. Next give a quarter turn and push it out again. Keep thinking: stretch it, fold it, turn it; stretch it, fold it, turn it. 

The dough is ready when it is springs back to the touch, feels elastic and stops sticking to the board. If the amount you are making is big, split the dough into 2 to make it easier to knead.
Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/gas mark 7. Shape the dough as required and place it on a flat piece of wood or baking tray dusted with flour or semolina. This helps it slide into the oven when risen. Leave in a warm place to rise until doubled in size, 45-60 minutes. When ready, the dough should slowly bounce back to the touch. Make a cross in the top of the dough, then put in the oven on an oiled baking tray. Bake the loaves for 30-35 minutes, the rolls for about 20 minutes.

Published in Pizza & Bread
Friday, 09 April 2010 14:02

Pane - Starter Dough, Mother Dough

Starters


Using a fermentation 'starter' helps to develop flavour and create a more open texture and chewy crust. This is the flavour that hits you when you break into a wonderful artisan loaf and release the slightly beery, acidic smell inside. The longer the starter is given to ferment, the more pronounced these qualities. There are three types of starter: the everlasting starter (or madre) made from natural yeast, the starter dough (or biga) made from beer yeast a day or two before the dough is made and used in its entirity, and the mother dough which is literally a piece of dough kept back from the previous day's baking and aded to the next batch. All these starters, to a greater or lesser degree, give the bread qualities that cannot be found in a loaf made without a starter. Of the three, the madre produces the highest acidity, the most flavour and a good crust.
Traditional Italian wheat flour is weak in gluten and so using a starter of any kind helps to form a good, well risen loaf. Today, imported Canadian flours are far stronger than they were in the past, making a starter less necessary to ensure bread made with this type of flour rises, but a starter is still good for flavour. Some of the Italians I have worked with tell me that now beer yeast and good flour are readily available, they no longer use a starter as their mothers did 20 or 30 years ago. Some Italian bakers use a poolish, the starter used by French bakers. This is more liquid than a biga, usually containing the same amount of water to flour, and its name derives from the Polish bakers whose techniques were taken to France. However, it is not nearly as popular as the firmer, more traditional biga.

Everlasting starter (madre)


This is sometimes referred to in English as a 'mother' or 'sourdough' starter and in Italian as lievito di madre, madriga or pasta acida. Before beer yeast was readily available, each household would make its own starter from airborne yeasts or those found in fermenting fruits such as grapes. It's easy enough to create your own yeast culture from flour, water and honey over about a week. This can then be kept in the fridge, 'fed' regularly with flour and water, and used to give bread a wonderful flavour, crust and texture. Such starters are everlasting: some bakeries in America claim to have had their starter for over one hundred years. It can be made out of white or wholemeal flour. I have used both successfully, but if you want a pure white bread you cannot use a wholemeal starter; bear in mind, though, that a wholemeal starter works more quickly. It is better to choose the type of flour according to the bread you are most likely to make - if you are a lover of wholemeal, stick to a wholemeal starter.

- 200g organic strong white flour or organic strong wholemeal flour, or a mixture of the two
- 150m1 tepid water
- 1 teaspoon organic mild honey, such as acacia

Mix all the ingredients together well and leave in a plastic container in a warm place with the lid slightly ajar. In a day or two the contents will start to ferment and bubble, and a strong smell of alcohol will develop. I was convinced this was wrong the first time I made this madre and threw it away! Perservere; the flavour will moderate over time and with regular feeding, and the resulting flavour of your bread will be delicious. After two days, discard 100g of the fermented mixture and 'feed' it with another 200g of the same type of flour and 150m1 water. Mix them in well, including any crust that has developed. This can be done by blitzing in a food-processor. Repeat every now and again to ensure that the madre has a smooth consistency. Leave the mixture again, lid on this time, in a warm place for another 48 hours and then discard another 100g and feed as before. Leave for one more day, then the madre is ready to use according to the instructons in the recipe. From now on keep the madre in the fridge with the lid on. All you need to remember is to use (or discard) 350g a week and then to feed it with flour and water as before. Don't worry too much about the timing, though; at the low temperature of your fridge, the madre will forgive you if you leave it for up to ten days without nourishment. If you have too much because of lack of use and subsequent feedings, throw away a little more of the madre each time to compensate'. If I want to use the madre the day after feeding it, I leave it out-of the fridge to speed up the fermentation. Similarly, if I know I won't be using it for another few days, I immediately put it back in the fridge to slow down the fermentation.

If I do not have an everlasting starter in my fridge, I make a biga a couple of days before or even the night before I want to make bread. This type of starter dough can also be frozen. Just remember that it needs to defrost for 3 hours at room temperature to return to its bubbly and active old self. I find I can make most Italian bread successfully in this way.
A biga usually consists of half the amount of water to flour and a very small percentage of beer yeast (lievito di birra). As with other starters, there are several ways of preparing a biga, and each recipe can differ according to the type of bread being made. I have worked out a simple method here that can be added to a variety of recipes. Either mix it with the water first or
knead into the rest of the ingredients when they form a dough - whichever -
you find easier. For best results when using a biga, be patient and give the dough a few hours to rise to let the flavour really emerge. As a general rule, the slower the fermentation, the better the flavour of the bread.

Writing a chapter about Italian bread is like negotiating a maze: it is full of traps, contradictory information and differing opinions. Bread is made differently all over Italy, and those differences are not simply regional: bread-making varies from town to town, street to street and home to home. What I want to convey here, then, is the spirit of Italian bread and the ease of making classics- such as focaccia and pizza, which are still made in most households today. As you grow in experience, I hope you'll be encouraged to try making breads using a madre, such as the Rustic White Bread, or with a biga, such as the Spelt Bread or Rye Bread. First, though, a little explanation about how the rising is achieved.

 


 

Starter dough (biga)

- 250g '0' flour or strong white flour
- 150 ml tepid water
- 3g yeast


Put the flour in a bowl, mix the water and the yeast together and then pour them into the bowl. Mix together well, cover the bowl with clingfilm and leave overnight. If the room is cold, leave the bowl out; if you have the central heating on, put it in the fridge. It will ferment and bubble overnight. Next day, take the biga out of the fridge and allow it to come to room temperature. Now mix with the other ingredients as instructed in the recipe you are using.

 


 

Mother dough


The third form of starter is a piece of dough kept back from the previous day's baking. If I am in the throes of breadmaking, I keep back 200g of dough from the current batch and allow it to ferment, covered, in the fridge for a day or two. I add this to the new batch and put a 200g piece from the fresh dough in the box in the fridge. Many Italian bakers do this; it's amazing to smell this fermenting dough and see what it does to your bread. Another advantage to this method is that this piece of dough can be frozen and simply defrosted before use.

 

 

 

 

 

Published in Masterclasses
Friday, 09 April 2010 13:31

Yeast - Lievito

 

Yeast is a single-celled fungus that eats carbohydrate as it multiplies. As it does so, it produces carbon dioxide gas in the form of little bubbles, which are perfect for making bread. A few cells of yeast are all you need, but the amount of yeast required to make dough rise varies hugely in accordance with the result you are seeking. I would use as little as 3g yeast to 500g flour in some recipes to produce a very slow fermentation that gives an acidic flavour to the finished loaf. But I have also listed recipes here with 25g yeast to 500g flour, for example a Pugliese-style focaccia.

In this recipe, the bubbles rise quickly to the surface and the bread is light, airy and quick to make. As a general rule, the less yeast you use, the longer the fermentation and therefore the better the flavour.

Natural yeast
Natural airborne yeasts are all around us and can be harvested simply by leaving food out for them. This is what must have first happened a few thousand years ago when someone accidentally left the dough out and it started to ferment from the natural yeast in the air. When it was baked, or mixed first with fresh dough, this leavened bread would have tasted really rather nice! Since then, people have been making their own starter doughs (often called a Thother'), from natural yeast found in the air or from fermenting substances like fruit, including grapes (or grape must), apples and oranges. This was how all bread was leavened before beer yeast was marketed in fresh or dried form. If you want to make your own starter in this way, follow the instructions for making your own madre (mother)

Fresh yeast
Though you can achieve equally good results with fresh or dried commerial yeast, I prefer to use fresh yeast. It feels more natural and is generally preferred in Italy, where you can buy it in shops and supermarkets. Here, it is a little harder to find, but you can usually buy it from health food stores, organic shops or the bakeries in some supermarkets. Fresh yeast keeps in the fridge for up to three weeks if it is covered, and you can rub it straight into the flour when you start making your bread, however I prefer to melt it in tepid water first to prevent any lumps of yeast appearing in my dough.
If you buy a large block of fresh yeast, cut it into small portions, wrap them in clingfilm and store in the freezer for up to three months. You should defrost them before use... that said, on occasion I have had to use yeast from frozen and as soon as it hits the tepid water it quickly melts.

Dried yeast
The advantage of dried yeast is that you can keep it in a cupboard and bring it out as necessary rather than worrying about using up the fresh yeast stored in the fridge within its three-week shelf life. Just make sure you observe the use-by date as even dried yeast eventually perishes. Use half the quantity of dried yeast to fresh.
Old-fashioned dried yeasts had to be brought back to life with warm water and a touch of sugar, but today's fast-action or easy-blend yeasts can simply be mixed straight in with the flour.

 

 

 

 

Published in Masterclasses
Friday, 09 April 2010 13:07

Farina - Flour Of Italy

Grades of flour


The difference between '0' and '00' flours is in the level of refining and therefore the percentage of grain left after milling. Flour used to be categorised into '00', '0', '1' and '2' grades, '00' being the finest and whitest and working down to the almost wholemeal grade '2' flour. Today, however, the most readily available flours using this categorisation are `0' or '00' grades. Both are suitable for bread-making.

"0" flour: Many people suggest At '0' flour has higher, level of gluten, as in British strong flour, but it is as stright-forward as '0' flour being strong and '00' soft. Italians are divided as to which one is better for making bread and both parties are, of course, sure they are right. We prefer to use '0' flour, as the '00' grade seems to make the bread slightly cakey in texture, but in tests we have done with focaccia it is hard to see any real difference.

'00' flour: Because it is milled more than '0' flour, this is the most refined grade with the lowest level of bran. Some people say that some of the protein is lost during the milling process, resulting in a lower gluten flour. '00' is popular for making pasta in northern Italy when egg is used.
For patisserie, the most commonly used among the grand tenero (soft wheat) flours is '00' grade, which can be a minxture of different types of wheat: 30 per cent Canadian nitoba, 30 per rent Austrian, 20 per cent French and 20 per cent Italian wheat.


Organic and local flour.  Where possible, we prefer to buy organic flour to be certain that it is as pure as can be, and does not contain traces of pesticides or too many additives. Locally produced flour is great because it prevents unnecessary transportation, although unfortunately the European climate is unable to produce flour as strong as the Canadian flours. Italian flour has always been weak (apart from the hard durum wheat variety used for dried pasta) which is one reason that a biga was traditionally used to help the flour. This also accounts for the popularity of manitoba flour, which is more reliable than Italian flour. Due to the high cost of importing flour in the UK and Italy, we are usually sold a mix of local and Canadian flours, which marries the weak and the strong as well as the local and the imported.

 

TYPES OF FLOUR

Strong flour
Because of the proteins in the grain used to make strong flour, it yields higher quantities of gluten. The extra gluten makes bread-making more successful. Although most countries measure their flour in terms of gluten levels, Italy does not, which means you cannot directly compare Italian flour with flour from other parts of the world.

Semola and semolina
Creamy coloured semola is milled durum wheat. Its name means 'semi-milled' indicating that it is coarser than regular '00' and '0' white flour. Semola rimacinata is more finely ground and this is used to make pasta or bread by hand in the south of Italy.

Semola acts like little ball bearings on a pala (the thin board for shunting pizza or loaves into the oven). Rather than sticking, the dough glides from the pala onto the hot baking tray in the oven.

As semola is difficult to find in the UK, a good substitute is the finest semolina, made from soft wheat that has not been completely ground to flour. The recipe for Semolina Bread (see page 50) makes a particularly tasty loaf that lasts well, and here semolina is combined with strong flour.

Plain flour
This 'soft' flour is not available in Italy, but because it is finely milled, it is similar to '00' flour. Plain flour contains less gluten than '0' or '00' flours, making it suitable for cakes and pastry which do not need a high gluten quantity. Do not use it for making bread.

Self-raising flour
Simply flour with baking powder added, this is unheard of in Italy. Instead, Italians use '00' flour and add little blue packets of pane degli angeli, baking powder that may contain vanilla flavouring. Since there are also E numbers in these sachets, I prefer to use plain or '00' flour and add my own baking powder. If I need vanilla, I use the seeds from a pod or vanilla extract.

Wholemeal flour
This is becoming more popular in Italy among artisan bakeries and those adopting healthy or high-fibre diets. All bread and pasta was once wholemeal. However, over time the rich opted for white flours, and there is still a snobbery about only eating white-flour products. Cetina, who made bread with me in Sicily, said rather disparagingly, 'Only people on diets use wholemeal bread so they only eat small amounts, hence all the sfilatini - long, small loaves - in the shops'.


Farina di grano Saraceno - buckwheat flour
This is not suitable for bread, although it could be added for flavour. It is used for making pizzoccheri pasta.

Farina di grano Turco - corn flour
Corn, or maize, came to Italy from America, but it was assumed at the time that it came from Turkey hence the name 'Turkish grain'. Finely ground corn flour is used to thicken sauces such as crema pasticcera. When corn is semi-ground, it is used to make polenta. Polenta is sometimes used in bread-making to form a crusty coating on bread or breadsticks.

Farina di segale - rye flour
Common in Central Europe, where it is used to make the traditional brown bread - and vodka - rye is common in northern Italy, especially in Valle D'Aosta and Trentino Alto Adige, where the traditional food has been influenced by Austria
and Switzerland. Often breads made with rye flour are flavoured with caraway seeds. As rye gluten is very weak, it needs to be mixed with strong white flour for bread-making.

Farina di farro - spelt or emmer wheat
Spelt and emmer wheat are types of farro, which is the most ancient cereal used by humankind. It has a high level
of fibre and it works really well for baking. Some people say that the Romans won their empire on farro, because their soldiers could fight and travel for longer on the slow-releasing carbohydrate gained from mush made from the grains. The gluten contained in farro is more easily digested than in wheat, making it good for people with a wheat intolerance. The hard exterior to the grain gives it protection against insects and therefore the crop does not require pesticides.
The flavour is good too. It may be psychological, but I am sure I feel better when I have baked a farro loaf.

     
Published in Masterclasses
Friday, 09 April 2010 08:04

Bread Baking

Temperature
Bakeries are warm places, so try to mimic them in your kitchen. Close the doors, turn up the oven and get cosy with your dough. Although yeast will work slowly even in the fridge overnight, a kitchen temperature of 20-23°C gives an unhurried rise; to speed up fermentation, try a temperature of 24-38°C. Some ovens have settings for rising dough, but a warm, draught-free place is ideal. You will find the perfect place in your home, such as an airing cupboard or a shelf over the tumble drier - I taught one lady who found that her humid indoor pool room was perfect!
Bread needs to be baked at a very high temperature. Most of the recipes here call for around 220-250°C (425-500°F/Gas Mark 7-9). This heat allows the dough to expand until it reaches 60°C, when the yeast is killed. If the oven is not hot enough, the dough will continue to rise and the top of the bread will be forced away from the bottom. This 'oven spring' also happens if the dough hasn't risen enough before going into the oven.

Photo: Woman baking a traditional sardinian Curasao Bread "Pane Curasao della Sardegna"

Water
A dough recipe generally comprises 60-65 per cent water to flour. The Neapolitans swear that the dough for their famous pizza is better than anywhere else because of the region's water. I am sure that water can make a difference - a heavily chlorinated water, for example, could affect the growth of natural yeast - but I find my tap water is fine. And whether your water is hard or soft makes little difference to the finished bread. If you are concerned, though, simply use bottled water, especially for making starters. When I refer to tepid water, it should be the same temperature as your hand - 22-24°C. You can test the temperature by looking away as you put your finger in a jug of water. If it is tepid, you should be unable to tell when your finger is in or out of the water, since there will be no sensation of hot or cold.

Salt
There is usually 2.5 per cent salt to flour in a dough recipe to inhibit the yeast from working too quickly and give depth of flavour. Mix salt into the flour before the yeast - direct contact soon kills the yeast. In Tuscany bread is made without salt, but I find it pretty unpalatable

Sugar or honey
If used at all in a dough, these comprise 0.5-1 per cent of the ingredients, to 'push' the fermentation. If using honey, add it to the water; mix sugar into the flour. Sugar gives a better colour and crust.

Covering the dough
Dough should be covered when left to rise or prove. Give it a light coating of oil first - put the dough into a lightly oiled bowl, then turn until all its surfaces are covered. This will stop it developing a crust. Then cover with clingfilm or a linen tea-towel. In hot weather, wet the tea-towel first. Dough can also be left in a floured, linen-lined bowl.

Rising
It is possible to shape a loaf straight after kneading and achieve a perfectly good close-crumbed bread. If you require more spring and airiness, let the dough rise before shaping and then let it prove (rise a second time) before baking. When the dough has doubled in size and remains depressed if you touch it lightly with a finger, it is ready for baking, or for shaping before the next rising.

Steam
For a good crust, steam is required at the beginning of baking. Bakers use steam-injection ovens. To simulate this at home, spray the oven (being careful to avoid the light and the loaf) 10-15 times with water from a refillable spray bottle. Some people put a tray of hot water in the bottom of the oven to create steam.

When is the bread done?
I have always found tapping the base of bread to see if it sounds hollow quite difficult. Although it may not help first-time bakers, I feel it is better to trust your instinct and feel the weight of the loaf. Bread loses 20 per cent of its weight during baking, so if it feels heavy, it is probably underbaked and should be left in longer. After you have baked a particular bread a few times, you will get the feel of this. Don't be afraid to adjust the oven temperature; all ovens are different and often have a hot spot. Allow loaves to cool on a wire rack before cutting.

Storing bread
Wrap completely cooled focaccia tightly in clingfilm. It will be slightly hard but still good next day. Focaccia is good toasted when past its best - use it for crostini.

 Photo: Original Piadina Romagnola

Equipment

Digital scales
Weighing using digital scales is a quick and exact way to measure ingredients. I wouldn't be without mine, especially when using very small amounts of yeast or salt. You can measure water using these scales, since millilitres of water weigh the same as grams, making a measuring jug unnecessary. However, don't worry too much about weighing when you are used to a recipe; most Italians don't even have scales in the house - all is done all'occhio (measuring by eye).


Tablespoons and teaspoons
Having an accurate tablespoon and teaspoon measure to hand helps when measuring oil and salt, although salt can also be measured on a digital scale.

Measuring jug
This is necessary if you don't use digital scales.

Mixing bowls
Ours are very cheap plastic bowls bought from Italian markets for a euro each. The thin plastic adapts quickly to the temperature around it, easing the rising process.

Mixer
I like to use a mixer with a dough hook for kneading if I am short of time, if the dough is very wet, or I want to get on with something else while the dough churns and turns all by itself. However, since I hardly ever knead any dough for longer than 10 minutes and enjoy the exercise, I usually do it by hand - the other plus is that hand-kneading means less washing up.

Dough scraper
This essential bit of kit is used for mixing the dough, transferring it to the bowl, cutting shapes and cleaning the work surface afterwards. Our chefs used to cut their scrapers from disused plastic containers. However, you can easily buy metal or plastic dough scrapers through cook shops today; once you get used to using one, you will wonder how you survived without it.

Linen cloths
Ideal to place beneath the rising dough, since floured linen does not stick. In very dry conditions, wet cloths are good for introducing humidity into the dough.

Sharp knife or razor blade
Use these to slash dough before it goes into the oven.

Pala or peel
This thin wooden board is great for transferring the bread from work surface to oven. If you don't have one, a thin baking sheet without a lip is ideal.

Refillable water spray
Use for misting the oven to ensure a good crust.

Baking stones
Buy from a cook shop to transfer heat to the bottom of a loaf and help a home oven simulate a baker's oven. A large stone or tile from a DIY shop works fine, too. We use a terracotta tile to make pizzas in our oven at home.

Published in Masterclasses
Friday, 09 April 2010 07:50

Traditional styles of bread

Shapes of bread differ from region to region and there are far too many to mention, however the most popular are as follows:

Panino - common roll used to make filled snacks or light lunches.

Rosetta - crusty white roll Michetta - crispy light roll from Milan.

Pagnotta - large loaf, popular all over Italy, made to last the week. Typical are the sourdough durum wheat breads made in Altamura in Puglia which are full of holes and can weigh up to 2kg, or those made in the Dolomites that at one time were made to last for up to a year and had to be cut with a special knife. These big loaves are hard to bake at home, requiring a stone base to allow them to bake from underneath.

Filone - long loaf, like a fat baguette.

Ciabatta - the slipper loaf that is now so popular outside Italy.

Pane senza lievito - across Italy you will find unleavened bread such as piadina from Romagna, testo bread from Umbria, pane carasau from Sardinia and pitta from Calabria, which is served filled and re-heated or as an accompaniment to salumi and cheese.

Pane integrale - wholemeal bread

Pane carre - a sliced white loaf used for mozzarella in carozza or tramezzini, the crustless sandwiches found in bars and cafés.

Never waste bread

Traditionally, bread is never thrown away in Italy. In various regions it is seen as bad luck to discard bread, however stale. Old bread, known as pane raffermo (bread that has become firm or hard) is used in recipes all over Italy.

Stale bread can be used to pad out soups such as Ribollita or Acquacotta, or soaked in vinegar and squeezed out to reconstitute for adding to the Tuscan salad Panzanella, In the Veneto, sliced dry bread is imbibed with flavoured stock and served as a soup.
Breadcrumbs, too, are a staple of the kitchen. Semi-stale crumbs are mixed with meat for stuffing or for use in the soup known as passatelli. Very dry crumbs are used to coat veal in the Milanese fashion.
Often they will impanare a piece of meat, which means dipping it in flour, egg and then bread- crumbs before frying.

Soft breadcrumbs
Italians call the soft white breadcrumbs from inside a loaf mollica. They use these in meatballs and meatloaf. Slightly stale bread from a white loaf is often soaked in milk and then used. However this only works in the UK when you have a properly made country loaf with a crumb that is quite solid and full of holes. Most commercial British white bread simply turns to putty when soaked and doesn't bounce back to life like an Italian country loaf. So I prefer to whizz soft bread into breadcrumbs using a food processor and then add a couple of spoons of milk to the recipe if it feels a little dry. If you are doing this with a recipe that includes herbs or garlic, whizz them at the same time and the flavour will be wonderful. If you don't have a food processor, use a grater instead.

Medium-soft breadcrumbs
If you are making something with a crust, such as Oven-baked Salmon with Pistachio and Honey Crust, use medium-dry breadcrumbs or fresh breadcrumbs, and don't sieve them: the crunch is better if the breadcrumbs are not too fine.

Dry breadcrumbs
You can make hard breadcrumbs from very stale bread. Italian mammas could give you a thousand recipes for ways to use these, but here, you'll find them in Veal Milanese, Summer Sunday Chicken and Peperonata. When coating veal, first sieve the breadcrumbs so that you are only left with the smallest crumbs.

Freezing breadcrumbs
Breadcrumbs can be frozen, so stick a small bag or two in the freezer. But don't freeze massive quantities; you won't be able to use them up quickly enough.

 

Published in Masterclasses
Thursday, 08 April 2010 19:25

Italian Pane - The Bread

Bread is eaten throughout the day, every day in Italy, dipped into coffee in the morning, used to scoop up food or mop juices from the plate at lunch or dinner (the Italians call a piece of bread used for this purpose scarpetta), and dipped into soup, served with salad or eaten as a snack. In Tuscany, bread is used for tasting the first olive oil of the season, simply rubbed with garlic and drizzled with the olive oil. It's called Fettunta.


Italians especially love bruschetta (bread toasted on a grill), usually rubbed with olive oil and topped with chopped tomatoes and basil, or crostone (large toasts) and crostini (small toasts) topped with a variety of ingredients, such as dressed beans, chicken livers or vegetables. These are eaten on their own at family gatherings and parties, or served as antipasti. The words bruschetta and crostini often seem interchangeable, and Italians are usually vague about the difference, but in general, bruschetta refers to simple, chargrilled bread — the bread itself is the hero, often only with good oil drizzled over — whereas crostini is toasted bread that acts as the carrier for all kinds of combinations of ingredients.


There is still a great deal of religious symbolism surrounding bread and pastries. At one time it was considered sacrilegious to turn a loaf upside down because it symbolises Christ's body, and I have seen Italians kiss dough or bread before throwing it away as a sign of respect. Various specialities and specific shapes of bread are often only made at the time of religious festivals. To celebrate Easter, for example, bread is formed into a ring in Naples and baked with whole eggs still in their shells — this symbolises fertility and spring, and probably has pre-Christian origins. In Liguria at Easter, torta pasqualina was originally made with 33 layers of pastry, each one symbolising a year of Jesus's life, and the famous Easter colomba cake is made in the shape of a dove.
In this spirit of celebration, I love to give home-baked Italian bread as presents. At the risk of sounding like a 1950s housewife who has nothing better to do than bake, when I go to someone's house for dinner it makes me happy to take a freshly baked loaf wrapped in baking parchment and tied with rustic string, perhaps decorated with a sprig of rosemary. The recipient may be secretly less than grateful and wish I had brought flowers or chocolates, but thanks to the polite manners of my friends I will never know! A selection of grissini also makes a lovely gift since breadsticks keep well. When we were taking photos of grissini in Sardinia, Anna, whose house we had borrowed, showed me how she folded a piece of baking parchment in half and cut out a semi-circle shape. She then folded it again and made several snips with a pair of scissors around the edge to make little decorative holes. It was so simple but effective that I have copied her many times since when putting bread or cakes on a plate.


It was the Greeks who taught the Romans how to bake bread with natural leavens and wheat flour in around 170BC. Before that they ate puts, aBruschetta sort of grain mush. It became cool for Romans to have a Greek baker in their local bakery or to keep a Greek slave baker at home, and by 147BC, these bakers were considered important in Roman society. The Greeks baked around 50 kinds of bread using fine-milled flour and large ovens.
In her fascinating book The Italian Baker, Carol Field talks of bakers in 25BC leavening bread with pieces of dough left over from the previous day and using beer yeast introduced by the Gauls and Germans. At the same time, they were also using a biga, or starter dough, made from fermenting wheat flour and grape must. They also made enriched doughs containing egg, oil, honey and cheese in various forms.


According to Field, in later Roman times less wheat was grown as fields were given over for cattle, and with the expansion of the Roman Empire, wheat was brought in from abroad. When the Roman Empire fell apart, Rome was no longer able to import wheat from Egypt and Africa, so bread virtually disappeared. It was the Byzantines who brought it back by growing wheat at the edges of the Tiber River. Fortunately, breadmaking skills had been preserved in the monasteries and by AD800, under Charlemagne's control, bread had become more important again and mills re-established. The legacy of the Romans persisted into the 1950s, however, with bread being eaten according to class: pane nero, or wholemeal bread, was still typically for the poor, while the rich ate bread made with fine white flour.


After the fall of the Roman Empire, the Italian regions became better established and more local styles of bread developed. By the Middle Ages, bakers were concentrating on elaborate speciality breads, using ingredients specific to their locality. The Black Death had a devastating effect in the 14th century, bringing famine to Italy, and the high cost of wheat at this time made bread scarce.


By the Renaissance, however, things had improved again, and bread was baked with sophistication by Italian bakers until the Viennese, across the border, began to rival the Italian bakers with the beautiful pastries and breads in their coffee houses, and Napoleon introduced French white bread to Italy. Puff, flaky and other pastries were developed at this time and became commonplace over the following years. There is great debate about who taught whom. In her Gastronomy of Italy, Anna Del Conte says that the Tuscans claim to have taught the French how to make choux pastry; apparently, one of Caterina de Medici's cooks, Pantanelli, took the recipe with him when he accompanied her to France. Certainly profiteroles and the similar bigne are still popular all over Italy today - but who knows who really made such things first?

Loaves were traditionally marked with an identifying symbol in Italy before being baked. This sign, called a marchio, was particularly important before the 1950s and 60s, when bread began to be made on an industrial scale. Before this time, ovens were often shared, or you would take your bread to the local bakery to be baked for a set fee. Obviously each family's loaves had to be recognisable after baking, hence the mark. This was still the case when easy italian Chef was young; he remembers families taking it in turns to fire up their ovens so local people could come and bake their bread. Every fortnight it would be his family's turn and they would get up at 4am to stoke the fire and start baking. He says it was his favourite day of the fortnight as it caused a big commotion and the smell was so wonderful.


An Italian artisan baker I work with in London still makes marks on his loaves and can recognise those of other bakers. Frequently, a cross is made in the dough before it goes into the oven. This helps the loaf to expand easily, but the intent is also to bless it, so that the bread is good.
In Italy, as at home in the UK, artisan bakeries producing traditionally made bread have been making a comeback in the face of more industrialised breadmaking. Stalls at markets sell bread made by small producers, or you can buy loaves from the back of an ape, (one of those annoying little scooters converted into a small van). As well as traditional and regional specialities, you will find a whole range of breads these days, including organic, wholemeal, spelt and seeded loaves. Fashionable flours include manitoba, a Canadian flour that is high in gluten and therefore strong and good for bread, and kamut, a type of low-gluten wheat sold in America and Europe and made by a company of the same name. The original kamut grains are supposedly descended from a few grains found in a stone box in a tomb near Dashur in Egypt in the 1940s. This is unlikely, however; there is no evidence that the ancient Egyptians grew any wheat other than spelt, and the maximum life-span of wheat (unless frozen) is 200 years. It is more likely that kamut is a strain that, over the centuries, adapted itself to grow away from its source in Egypt. Rice and soya flour are also becoming popular in Italy, with the increase in numbers of people with a wheat intolerance, and pasta and bread made with these flours are available from health food shops.

 


 Bread Baking and Bread Basic Recipes

•Breaking on side

a) Decrease oven temperature.
b) Make sure dough has risen enough before baking.
c) Roll dough tightly and seal edges securely.

•Browning on sides

a) Bright pans reflect heat away from sides so choose dark pans.
b) Do not overcrowd the oven. This may restrict the volume in the oven and distribute the heat poorly and non efficiantly.

•Collapses in oven

a) To prevent over-rising when making yeast bread, the kneaded dough has to set in a slightly warm place in order to let the yeast act and the dough develop. This step improves the flavor and the texture of the bread.

•To rise, place the kneaded dough in a lightly oiled, large mixing bowl. The dough should be turned over to oil the top so that it does not dry out. Cover the bowl loosely with plastic wrap or foil and let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free location. The oven is an ideal place for this. For an electric oven or a gas oven with electronic ignition, heat the oven at the lowest setting for one minute, then turn off. In other gas ovens, the pilot light will provide enough warmth. Place a pan of very warm water toward the back of the oven to provide moisture. Place the bowl or pan of dough on the center rack and close the door.

Many factors, including the recipe, room temperature, and humidity, will determine how long it takes for the dough to rise. The best way to decide whether it has risen sufficiently and is ready to be punched down and shaped is to perform a "ripe test." Gently stick two fingers in the risen dough up to the second knuckle and take them out. If the indentations remain, the dough is ripe and ready for punch down. If not, cover and let rise longer.



•Cracking on tops

a) Do not cool bread in a draft.
b) Decrease flour amount
c) Increase kneading time to develop the gluten better.

•Crumbles easily

a) Increase the mixing time.
b) Decrease the flour amount.
c) Make sure the rising place is not over 90 degrees F.
d) Use the over-rising technique to prevent over-rising.
e) Use a higher oven temperature.

•Damp inside

a) Use an instant-read thermometer to be certain the bread is completely baked.
b) Use the over-rising technique to be sure dough has risen enough before baking.

•Dark lines in bread

a) Increase the mixing and kneading times.
b) Use less oil to grease rising bowl.
c) Be sure dough is covered during rising time.

•Doesn't rise in oven

a) Make sure the rising place is not over 90 degrees F
b) Use the ripe test to prevent over-rising.

•Doughy on bottom

a) Immediately after baking, remove from pans and cool on racks.


•Dough doesn't rise

a) Use thermometer for accurate liquid temperature.
b) Decrease the flour amount.
c) Use oven for a rising place.
d) Check activity of yeast.

•Dry and coarse grain

a) Decrease amount of flour.
b) Increase kneading time to develop the gluten better.
c) Use the over-rising technique to prevent over-rising.
d) Use a higher oven temperature.

•Heavy and compact

a) Decrease flour amount.
b) Use the over-rising technique to be sure dough has risen enough before baking.
c)Certain flours, such as whole wheat and rye, create heavier products than white flour.

•Holes in bread

a) Completely press air out of dough before shaping.
b) Use the over-rising technique to prevent over-rising.

•Sour taste
a) Make sure the rising place is not over 90 degrees F.
b) Use the over-rising technique to prevent over-rising.

•Thick crust

a) Decrease the flour amount.
b) Lengthen the rising time using the over-rising technique.
c) Use a higher oven temperature.

•Yeasty and smelly

a) Use the over-rising technique to prevent over-rising.
b) Make sure the rising place is not over 90 degrees F.


 

White Bread

Ingredients

1.5 teaspoons active dry yeast
2 tablespoons crisco or tenderflake
1 1/4 cups warm water
2.5 tablespoons white sugar
2 teaspoons salt (neutral salty taste0
3 cups all-purpose flour
1.5 tablespoon butter, melted


Directions
1• Mix together shortening, sugar, salt, yeast, and 1 cup flour. Add warm water and beat by hand until manageable, or 3 minutes with an electric mixer. Add remaining flour, scraping bowl often, and mix all together until smooth.
2• Cover with a clean cloth and let rise until doubled in volume.
3• Stir dough down gently, and spoon into a lightly greased 9x5 inch loaf pan (the batter should be sticky). Pat down with floured hands to help shape. Cover again, and let rise for about 30 minutes.
4• Preheat oven to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C).
5• Bake for about 45 minutes. Place on a cooling rack, and brush top with melted butter.

Sun Dried Tomato and Provolone Bread
Ingredients:


2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup shredded Provolone Piccante
1/2 cup thinly sliced scallion
2 tablespoons minced Italian parsley leaves
3/4 teaspoon dried rosemary, crumbled
3/4 teaspoon coarsely ground pepper
1/3 cup drained and chopped Il Forteto sun-dried tomatoes
2 tablespoons of the oil from the Il Forteto sun dried tomato jar
2 tablespoons vegetable shortening
2 tablespoons sugar
2 garlic cloves, pealed and minced, sauteed in 2 tablespoons of oil from Sun Dried Tomato jar
2 large eggs, beaten lightly
1 1/4 cups, buttermilk
1/3 cup pine nuts or walnuts, toasted lightly

Directions:
1• Into a large bowl sift together the flour, the baking powder, the salt, and the baking soda.
2• Add the provolone, the scallion, the parsley, the rosemary, the pepper, and the sun-dried tomatoes, and toss the mixture well.
3• In a small bowl whisk together the shortening, the sun-dried tomato oil, and the sugar until the mixture is smooth.
4• Add the garlic, the eggs, and the buttermilk, and blend mixture until it is combined well.
5• Add the buttermilk mixture to the flour mixture with the nuts and stir the batter until it is just combined.
6• Divide the batter among 3 well-buttered 6x3 inch loaf pans, smoothing the tops, and bake the loaves in the middle of a preheated 350F oven for 45 minutes, or until a tester comes out clean.
7• Let the loaves cool in the pans for 5 minutes, loosen the edges with a knife, and turn the loaves out onto a rack.

Makes 3 loaves.


Casalinga Bread
Ingredients


2 (.25 ounce) packages active dry yeast
2 cups warm water (110 degrees F/45 degrees C)
6 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup butter, chilled and diced


Directions
1• In a small bowl, dissolve yeast in warm water. Let stand until creamy, about 10 minutes.
2• In a large bowl, combine 4 cups of flour and salt. Cut in the butter and stir in the yeast mixture. Beat in the remaining flour, 1/2 cup at a time. When the dough has pulled together, turn it out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Butter a large bowl, place the dough in the bowl, and turn to coat. Cover with a damp cloth and let rise in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 1 hour.
3• Preheat oven to 400 degrees F (200 degrees C). Lightly grease a large baking sheet.
4• Deflate the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Form the dough into a large oval loaf. Place onto the prepared pan. Cover with a damp cloth and let rise until doubled in volume, about 30 minutes. When the loaf is risen, cut a 1/2 inch deep cross onto the top of it. Brush the top with water before baking.
5• Bake in preheated oven for 25 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C) and bake for an additional 15 minutes, or until bottom of loaf sounds hollow when tapped. Let cool on a wire rack before slicing.


Ciabatta Bread

Ingredients
12oz / 350g plain flour
1/4 teaspoon easy blend yeast
7fl oz/200ml warm water
olive oil
1/2 pint /300ml warm water
1 tablespoon olive oil
5 tablespoons warm milk
1 1/4 lb / 500g plain flour
1 teaspoon easy blend yeast
1 tablespoon salt
cornmeal to dust

Description
1 • Add yeast to sifted flour and slowly mix in the water. Beat for five minutes. Place in a bowl and brush with olive oil. Cover and leave to rise in a warm place until tripled in size (5-24 hours). Now chill.

2 • Stir the warm water, milk and olive oil into the chilled mixture. Slowly add this mixture to the 1 1/4 lb of flour, adding the yeast and salt.

3 • Using either a food processor or those at the end of your wrists, form into a dough and then knead on a floured surface until springy. Put dough in an oiled bowl, cover and leave to rise until doubled in size.

4 • Divide into four and stretch dough into rectangles, pressing flat with your knuckles. Cover with a damp cloth and leave in a warm place for 2 hours. Pre-heat oven to 220°C, gas mark 7. Heat baking sheets in oven. Dust baking sheets with cornmeal and place dough on top.

5 • Bake 25 minutes, sprinkling with water three times during the first 10 minutes.


Focaccia Bread

Ingredients

2 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon white sugar
1 tablespoon active dry yeast
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon dried basil
1 pinch ground black pepper
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 cup water
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese
1 cup mozzarella


Directions
1• In a large bowl, stir together the flour, salt, sugar, yeast, garlic powder, oregano, thyme, basil and black pepper. Mix in the vegetable oil and water.
2• When the dough has pulled together, turn it out onto a lightly floured surface, and knead until smooth and elastic. Lightly oil a large bowl, place the dough in the bowl, and turn to coat with oil. Cover with a damp cloth, and let rise in a warm place for 20 minutes.
3• Preheat oven to 450 degrees F (230 degrees C). Punch dough down; place on greased baking sheet. Pat into a 1/2 inch thick rectangle. Brush top with olive oil. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and mozzarella cheese.
4• Bake in preheated oven for 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve warm.


Italian Bread


Ingredients

3 cups warm water (110 degrees F/45 degrees C)
1 teaspoon white sugar
1 tablespoon active dry yeast
1 tablespoon salt
7 cups all-purpose flour


Directions
1• Add the sugar and yeast to the warm water and let proof.
2• Stir in 4 cups of flour and beat until smooth. Cover and let rest for 15 minutes.
3• Beat in the salt and then add enough remaining flour to make a stiff dough. Knead until as soft and smooth as a bambino's behind. Turn in a greased bowl, cover, and let double in size. (I put it in the oven with the light on - perfect rising temperature.)
4• Once doubled, punch down and divide into three. Place back in the bowl, cover, and let rise.
5• Once doubled again, punch down and form into three fat "footballs." Grease heavy cookie sheets and sprinkle with corn meal. Place the bread on the sheets, cover with a towel, and let rise.
6• Once risen, mist with water and place in a preheated 450 degrees F (230 degrees C) oven. Mist loaves with water and turn occasionally while they bake. Bread is done when golden brown and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom. Makes three (3) loafs.


Cheese Herb Bread

 
Ingredients

2 cups warm water (110 degrees F/45 degrees C)
2 tablespoons margarine, softened
1 1/2 tablespoons dried oregano
2 tablespoons white sugar
4 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
4 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese


Directions
1• Sprinkle yeast over water in large bowl. Let stand a few minutes, then stir and dissolve yeast. Add sugar, salt, margarine, 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, oregano and 3 cups of the flour. Beat at slow speed for 2 minutes. Beat in rest of flour; cover the bowl with a sheet of wax paper and a kitchen towel. Let rise in a warm place 45 minutes, or until doubled in volume.
2• Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Lightly grease one round, 2-quart casserole. Set aside.
3• Stir batter down for 1/2 a minute. Turn batter into casserole. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese.
4• Bake at 350 degrees F (175 degrees C) for 55 minutes. Makes one (1).


Black Treacle Loaf


Ingredients:
1/4 cup black treacle
1/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar
1 egg
4 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup milk
1 1/4 cup flour
1/2 cup raisins, chopped
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

Directions:
1• Preheat oven to 350 degress. In a medium bowl, cream black treacle, brown sugar, and egg.
2• In a small sauce pan melt together butter and milk. Cool and stir into treacle mixture.
3• In a small bowl, combine flour, raisins, baking soda, and spices. Stir, all at once, into the treacle mixture, until just smooth.
4•Butter a small loaf pan (approximately 2 1/2 x 4-inch). Pour bread batter into loaf pan and bake in pre-heated oven for 30-35 minutes, until top is dry.

Strufoli (Italian Honey Balls)


Ingredients:
2 cups flour
2 eggs
1/4 tsp. salt
2 cups oil (for frying)
1/2 cup Honey
1/2 cup sugar
2 Tbs. pine nuts or slivered almonds
1 Tbs. candy sprinkles

Directions:
Place 1 cup flour in large bowl.
Add eggs and salt. Mix and knead gently, adding enough flour to make a soft dough.
Divide in half.
Roll each half into 1/4" strips.
Cut each strip into small (1/4" to 1/2") pieces and roll into little balls.

1• Spread on floured board.
2• Heat oil in deep frying pan over medium heat until hot.
3• Fry balls, a few at a time, for 1 to 2 minutes or until golden.
4• Drain.
5• Blend honey and sugar in deep frying pan.
6• Stir constantly over low heat for about 5 minutes or until sugar has dissolved and mixture is smooth.
7• Add fried balls and stir with wooden spoon until coated.
8• Arrange in mound on serving plate and decorate with nuts and sprinkles.
9• Let cool before serving.

   
Published in Masterclasses

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