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Displaying items by tag: tips
Tuesday, 11 May 2010 10:45

Pizza and Tips

Romans baked a flat bread known as picea; centuries later it was still popular, but had changed from a plain bread to something similar to the pizza we know today.


Ferdinand II, the Bourbon monarch, loved the pizzas of famous pizzaiolo Don Domenico Testa so much that he made him a monzu (from the French word monsieur), which in 18th-century Naples was an honour normally reserved for the great French chefs who cooked for the rich. Ferdinand even had pizza ovens built in his garden so that he and guests could enjoy this Neapolitan delight.


In the book Usi e costumi di Napoli e contorni, published in 1858, Emanuele Rocco wrote that pizza, as it was called by then, could be finished with an assortment of toppings, such as basil, fish, cheese and oil. If you were to fold this over it would be known as pizza calzone.
In 1861, Umberto I, from the House of Savoy, came to the throne of Naples and visited the city. His wife Margherita was presented with a pizza by the chef Raffaele Esposito which was topped with ingredients in the colours of the -unified Italy - red tomatoes, white mozzarella and green basil - hence the Pizza Margherita.


Pizza, like everything else, differs across the country. In Naples, the crust is thicker than elsewhere in Italy. This helps keep the filling inside the parameters of the circle of dough. They are also more generous with their toppings in Naples. In Rome, the pizzas have thinner bases or are often made as tray pizzas.

Tips

I normally use strong flour for making pizza, but this does make the dough so elastic that when you roll it into shape it can spring back. I gleaned a tip from Hugh FearnleyWhittingstall to help avoid this: mix strong and plain flours (or `0' and '00' flours) together.


Many pizzaioli make pizza balls the night before and leave them in the fridge overnight to rise slowly. This gives a better flavour to the dough and reduces work next day.

Pizza are usually baked at 400`C, but in a domestic oven just turn it up as high as you can. Don't forget that you are trying to imitate the wood-burning pizza ovens of Italian restaurants! Put a baking tray or a pizza stone into the oven first to get really hot, which will help to get the base crisp. If you turn the baking trays upside down so that there is no lip, you can slide the pizzas easily in and out of the oven.

To make pizza bianca just drizzle hot pizza bread with your best olive oil, a little chopped garlic and some sea salt. For other pizzas it is important that there is not too much topping, or the base will be soggy. But too little topping and your pizza will be dry...


In Naples, pizza is often made with fior di latte mozzarella made with cow's milk. This is because the very fresh mozzarella, traditionally made with buffalo milk, is very watery and would make the pizza soggy. I still like using buffalo mozzarella, but I let it drain first in a sieve.

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