From soup and pasta to risotto, gnocchi, and polenta, first courses are the pride of the italian kitchen, transforming a handful of ingredients into culinary works of art. Light or hearty, casual or elegant, the primo piatto sets the tone for the entire meal.
Italian primi are the ambassadors of the cuisine. Dishes like Spaghetti alla Carbonara, Tagliatelle alla Bolognese, and Risotto alla Milanese have become popular menu mainstays throughout the world. Yet outside Italy, these classic primi tend to be served as main courses, often accompanied by a salari. Even in Italian homes and restaurants, the old rules are bending, and people often make a light meal of a primo piatto, with or without a simple accompaniment. Indeed, many of the recipes in this chapter can, and should, be enjoyed as main dishes.
But to experience an Italian meal at its traditional best, it helps to understand both the function of the primo piatto in the context of the entire menu and the importance of pacing. A full Italian meal is meant to be savored slowly, and a well-made first course, served with good wine, ensures this. If two courses seem like too much food, remember that the secret of the primo is to keep portions small.
CHOOSING A PRIMO
While the first and second courses are never served together, you should think of them as a complementary pair, just as you do when you order two courses from an Italian restaurant menu. If the secondo will be rich or hearty, start with a lighter primo, such as Minestrone with Pesto. Simple, straightforward cprnndi like Herb Roasted Pork Loin or Grilled Marinated Lamb Chops, can be preceded by a richer, more substantial primo, such as Crespelle with Prosciutto and Fontina, Lasagne alla Bolognese, or Potato Gnocchi with Chanterelles and Pancetta. Pair seafood secondi with seafood-based primi, such as Linguine with Clams or Lobster and Shrimp Agnolotti, or with a meatless primo, such as Risotto with Spring Vegetables or Penne alla Vodka.
SERVING OPTIONS
For more formai suppers, primi can be plated in the kitchen on dinner plates or soup bowls. This is a particularly good idea for delicate filled pastas, such as Pumpkin Tortelli with Brown Butter and Sage. Plating also allows the cook to distribute the sauce evenly among the portions, an advantage when serving a pasta with lots of solid ingredients, such as Pasta alla Puttanesca or Seafood Spaghetti. Use tongs to mound a small amount of pasta and sauce on each plate, then spoon additional sauce and ingredients evenly over each serving.
For casual meals, soups and such simple pastas as Linguine Aglio e Olio or Spaghetti with Pecorino and Pepper can be served family style from a tureen, large bowl, or platter. Gratins and baked dishes, including Spinach and Cheese Cannelloni, Crespelle with Prosciutto and fontina, and lasagne alla bolognese, can be served at the table directly from the pan in which they are baked.
For special occasions, Italians sometimes serve two or three primi piatti. These are usually offered in sequence, rather than all at once, so that they can each be perfectly cooked and served piping hot, and so that their flavors and textures can be individually appreciated. If you plan to serve more than one primo, keep portions small (this custom is called an assagio di primi, a "taste of first courses"). You may want to include at least one recipe that is prepared completely in advance, such as Wedding Soup or Gratinéed Ricotta and Spinach Gnocchi.
Pizza is neither a primo nor a secondo in Ital but rather a quick all-in-one meal. Yet simple pizzas, such as Pizza alla Margherita, Pizza Bianca, and Sausage Calzone with Peppers, work well as casual starters, so they have been included in this chapter. Serve them piping hot and whole at the table for the best effect.
ACCOMPANIMENTS
If your primo calls for grated cheese as a garnish, you can pass the cheese and a grater at the table, or, for a more refined presentation, you can grate the cheese just before the meal and pass it in a small bowl with a spoon for serving. For pastas with olive oil—based sauces and some soups, Italians often add a filo d'olio a light drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil at the table. Set out an attractive bottle, fitted with a slow-pouring stopper, for the purpose.Pass a basket of artisan bread for sopping up the sauce from the primo piatto, and replenish it when you serve the secondo. Choose a bread that reflects the regional origins of the food you are centins, such as Pugliese with southern Italian food or focaccia with Penne with Pesto, Potatoes, and Green Beans.