Easy Italian Recipes

The second course of an Italian meal usually features meat, poultry, or seafood, though a meatless dish may sometimes be served as part of a lighter menu. In most Italian homes, secondi tend toward simplicity, showcasing the flavors of the main ingredient and avoiding fancy preparations.

Much of Italian home cooking has grown out of poverty and resourcefulness, and until relatively recently, meat and fish were considered special-occasion luxuries. Although they are now part of everyday eating, this legacy can stili be seen in the way secondi piatti are served. The very fact that they are eaten second, after the first course of soup or pasta has taken the edge off the appetite, attests to the traditionally modest role of meat in the Italian diet.
The secondo, whether it is pork, beef, veal, lamb, poultry, game, fish, or vegetables, is not considered the "main dish," to be consumed in large portions. It is often only
a slice of meat, a small fish fillet, or a modest serving of poultry, game, or vegetables in other words, an element of the overall meal that works in concert with the equally important accompanying side dishes and the courses that precede and follow it.

REGIONAL VARIATIONS

Pork, chicken, and rabbit, all easy to raise, appear as secondi throughout the country, but especially in the northern and centrai regions of Italy where such classic dishes as Braised Rabbit Cacciatora and Pollo alla Diavolo originated. In the south and wherever there are mountains, lamb cooked over a wood fire or slowly braised is often the meat of the day's main meal. Beef and veal are served throughout Italy as well, most famously in and around Tuscany, the home of Chianina cattle and Bistecca alla Fiorentina.
Well into the twentieth century, most ltalians ate fish every Friday and during Lent, in keeping with Catholic tradition, and it has remained an important part of the cuisine. Fish are enjoyed as a secondo all over the peninsula, even in inland regions where they are caught in lakes and rivers, rushed in fresh from the nearest seacoast, or, increasingly, purchased frozen. Shellfish and other seafood are enjoyed grilled, fried, or in stews as secondi, though they are as likely to be used in sauces for pasta and other first courses.

SELECTING A SECOND COURSE

When choosing a recipe to serve as a secondo, take into account the season, the course that will precede it, and the number of people you will be serving. Or, do as the Italians do: visit a good butcher or fishmonger and ask what is fresh and of particularly high quality with respect to price.
For warm-weather meals and casual outdoor entertaining, consider a grilled secondo, to keep the menu casual and the kitchen cool. You can choose a lighter preparation, such as Halibut with Salsa Verde, Grilled Shrimp with Garlic and Lemon, or Pollo alla Diavola, or you can opt for a more robust secondo, like Grilled Marinated Lamb Chops. A meatless secondo, such as Ricotta and Tomato Sformato or Frittata with Greens, will also work well on a spring or summer menu. Any of these dishes can be preceded with a room-temperature antipasto, such as Panzanella  or Tomato, Basil, and Mozzarella Salad, and/or a light primo, such as Spaghetti with Salsa di Pomodoro or Risotto with Spring Vegetables.
During cold-weather months, you can grill indoors, using a Tuscan grill (a rack designed for cooking over embers in the fireplace) or an oven broiler. Or, choose one of the many classic braises and stews in this chapter, such as Braised Rabbit Cacciatora, Osso Buco with Gremolata, or Barolo-Braised Pot Roast. Roasted foods, like Roast Chicken with Lemon and Thyme, Herb-Roasted Pork Loin), and Roasted Branzino with Fennel, are good dishes for fall and winter. These heartier secondi can be preceded by a soup or pasta and are particularly well matched with a primo of risotto.
Sautéed and panfried secondi, such as Saltimbocca alla Romana, Veal Piccata, and Veal Chops Milanese, are excellent year-round choices. Because these dishes must be prepared at the last minute, you may want to pair them with a primo that you can make in advance, such as a baked pasta or a soup.
In general, the more people you will be serving, the less labor-intensive the menu should be. Braises, roasts, and stews are ideal for feeding a large group with minimal last-minute work in the kitchen. Whatever the occasion or number of guests, ltalians typically serve the secondo family style from a large platter or bowl, passing it, along with the side dishes, at the table. All of the recipes in this chapter are well suited to this generous, welcoming way of serving, which allows everyone to help themselves to as much or as little as they want.