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Food of Shepherds and Fishermen
These two mountainous regions, once joined as an administrative district under the name Abruzzi e Molise but now separated, extend from high in the Apennines to the Adriatic coast. They are among the nation's least populated regions, with much of their land given over to national parks. This is sheepherding country, and lamb is served many different ways: roasted, stewed alla cacciatora with chiles, or braised with a creamy egg and lemon sauce. The region is also known for cheese making, and local specialties include sheep's milk pecorino; buffalo's milk caciocavallo; and cow's milk scamorza and mozzarella. The local diavolillo chile adds sweet heat to sauces, sausages, soups, and pastas. Along the coast, brodetto, a seafood stew of fish, mollusks, and scampi, is seasoned with chiles and served in small terra-cotta pots. Trebbiano d'Abruzzo and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo are the area's signature white and red wines, respectively.
Culinary Signature: Maccheroni alla chitarra
This Abruzzese egg-and-flour fresh pasta
is made by rolling out sheets of dough, and then using the rolling pin to press the dough through the fine wires of a cutter called a chitarra (guitar). The result is long, thin strands that look like square-sided spaghetti and are often served with a hearty lamb ragù or a spicy tomato sauce.
Regional Specialties

Scamorza a cow's milk cheese similar to mozzarella, but with a firmer texture and saltier flavor; often grilled or spit roasted
Scrippelle 'mbusse delicate Abruzzese-style crespelle, or crépes, stuffed with Parmigiano-Reggiano and served in rich chicken broth
Tripe principally lamb offal, prepared many ways in Molise
'Ndocca 'ndocca a stew of pork variety meats Ventricina a spicy fennel-and-orange-scented pork sausage
Calciuni sweet fritters from Molise, filled with chestnuts and candied fruit, traditionally served at Christmastime
photo: Lamb is popular in the mountainous regions of southern Italy and is prepared in many different ways, from garlicky grilled chops te tender braised shanks. Fresh, creamy mozzarella di bufula has a meltingly soft texture. It is exquisite sliced and served with tomatoes, or melted over pizzas and baked pasta dishes.

