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Golden Cuisine
If Rome is Italy's political capital, Milan is its financial center, and the food of Lombardy reflects that prosperity. It is no coincidence that many of the
region's best-known dishes are golden—once a symbol of wealth—from saffron-tinged risotto and breaded veal cutlets to pale yellow panettone. The fiat plains of the Po River valley extend across most of the region, affording an abundance of corn and rice. These find their way onto the menu as polenta and risotto, which are generally preferred here over pasta. Ampie grazing land ensures plenty of butter, cream, and cheese, all of which are used lavishly in !oca! kitchens, a culinary legacy of nearby France, as well as plenty of beef and veal. Cooking here tends to be low and slow, with meats more often braised and simmered than grilled or roasted. Small freshwater fish are a specialty of the region's lakes: Como, Garda, and Maggiore.
Culinary Signature: Rice
Short-grain rice, with its small, plump kernels,has a higher starch content than medium-or long-grain rice. When simmered slowly and stirred constantly, it becomes creamy and tender, with a delicate al dente firmness, making it the rice of choice for risotto. Among Italian short-grain rices sold abroad, Arborio is the best known and easiest to find, but other varieties are worth tracking down. Carnaroli, sometimes called the "caviar" of Italian rices, is prized for its creaminess and firm core, which makes it more resistant to overcooking. Vialone Nano also produces a creamy risotto and is a good choice when parcooking risotto for finishing later.
Regional Specialties
Bresaola air-cured, salted beef tenderloin, served in thin slices like prosciutto as an antipasto
Risotto alla milanese golden risotto made with saffron, butter, and Parmigiano-Reggiano
Tortelli di zucca ravioli with a pumpkin filling
Pizzocheri buckwheat pasta with potatoes, cabbage, and cheese
Minestrone classic vegetable-and-pasta soup, often served with fresh basil pesto
Osso buco veal shanks braised with wine and sometimes tomatoes, served with gremolata, a garnish of minced parsley, lemon zest, and garlic
Costoletta alla milanese breaded veal cutlet, often served on the bone
Mascarpone a fresh, thick cow's milk cheese similar to cream cheese and used in desserts and as a garnish for risotto
Taleggio a semisoft cow's milk cheese
Panettone a sweet yeast bread studded with candied citron and raisins, originally served at Christmas and Easter, but now available year-round
Photo: Slowly braised, tender Osso buco is traditionally served with risotto alla milanese golden saffron, risotto and gremolata, a raw citrus-herb garnish
