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MAKES about 4 cups (32 fl oz 2l) - 2 tablespoons unsalted butter |
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In a Dutch oven or other large, heavy pot over medium-low heat, melt the butter. Add the carrots, celery, onion, and pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until the ingredients are tender and rich golden brown, about 30 minutes. If the ingredients are beginning to brown too much, reduce the heat slightly and stir in a spoonful or two of warm water.
Buon appetito ! |
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MAKES 6 servings
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Gnocchi are made primarily from potatoes or semolina, with potatoes favored in the north and semolina in the south, and the dough can be flavored with everything from spinach and pumpkin to ricotta. Here, potato gnocchi are topped with an unusual quick sauce of wild mushrooms, pancetta, and onion, but they may also be se -ved with a simple tornato sauce, a meat ragù, or even br mned butter. |
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To make the gnocchi, in a saucepan, combine the potatoes with water to cover, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook until the potatoes are tender, about 40 minutes. Drain the potatoes and let cool slightly. Peel the potatoes and then pass them through a ricer or a food mill fitted with the fine disk held over a rimmed baking sheet. Spread the potatoes out on the sheet and let cool. In a small bowl, lightly beat the egg with the salt. Drizzle over the potatoes, then sprinkle the 3/4 cup flour over the egg. Mix together gently by hand, being careful not to overwork the dough, until the flour is incorporated. Scrape the dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead a few times just unti) smooth, adding a little more flour if needed to arrive at a dough that is not sticky yet is stili moist. Set the dough aside, and scrape the work surface clean, discarding any bits of dough. Lightly dust 2 rimmed baking sheets and the work surface. Cut the dough into 4 pieces, cover 3 pieces with an overturned bowl, and put the remaining piece on the floured surface. Using your palms, l'oli the dough into a long rope about 1/2 inch (12 mm) in diameter. Cut the rope crosswise into 1/2-inch (12-mm) pieces. Place the gnocchi onto the prepared pans, being careful they don't touch. Repeat with the remaining 3 dough pieces. To make the sauce, in a large frying pan over medium heat, heat the oil and pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, unti] the pancetta begins to turn golden, about 5 minutes. Add the onion and sauté unti] softened, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, unti) the mushrooms are tender, about 5 minutes longer. Remove the pan from the heat while you cook the gnocchi. Bring a large pot three-fourths fui] of water to a rolling boil. Add 2 tablespoons salt, and then drop in the gnocchi a few at a time so they do not lump together. Cook, stirring once or twice, unti) they rise to the surface, about 3 minutes. When the gnocchi are almost ready, return the frying pan with the sauce to medium heat, add the stock, and bring to a simmer. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the gnocchi to the sauce. Raise the heat to high and cook for 1 minute, stirring very gently, Divide the gnocchi among warmed bowls and sprinkle with the parsley cheese, and some freshly ground pepper. Serve at once Buon appetito ! |
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MAKES 4-6 servings - 1/4 Ib (125 g) guanciale or pancetta, chopped |
Guanciale, pork cheek that resembles unsmoked bacon and is cured with salt, |
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In a frying pan over medium heat, cook the guanciale in the olive oil, stirring often, unti! golden, about 10 minutes. Add the onion and sauté until tender and golden, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and sauté until the garlic is golden, about 1 minute longer. Buon appetito! |
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MAKES 4-6 servings - 6 oz (185 g) pancetta or bacon, preferably at least 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick, chopped |
The origin of this Roman dish has long been in dispute. Was it invented by local carbonari (charcoal makers)? Or was it a practical way to use bacon and egg rations during World War II? Whatever its origin, the success of this simple dish is all about technique: you must mix the raw eggs into the hot spaghetti until they are no longer liquid but have not yet formed curds. |
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In a large frying pan over medium-low heat, combine the pancetta and olive oil and heat slowly until much of the fat is rendered and the meat has browned a little, about 15 minutes. Leave the meat and fat in the pan and cover to keep warm. Buon appetito! |
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The food of Lazio is a culinary bridge between Umbria and Tuscany to the north and Campania to the south: hearty cooking of home and farm that has centered, cince the days of ancient Rome, around lamb, pork, bread, cheese, seasonal vegetables, and olive oil, with fish from Lake Bolsena and seafood from the Tyrrhenian Sea added to the mix. The cooking of the capita!, much of which developed in trattorias, osterie (neighborhood eateries), and restaurants, is a cuisine in its own right. Roman food is bold, flavorful, and resourceful, making the most of every ingredient, from variety meats and vegetables (especially artichokes and greens) to dried pasta, including spaghetti and bucatini.
Variety Meats In the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, workers in the slaughterhouses of Rome's Testaccio district would be given, as part of their pay, the parts left over after carcasses were quartered. These parts became known as il quinto quarto, the fifth quarter. Neighborhood trattorias and home cooks devised all kinds of inventive uses for them, many of which have become classic Roman specialties, from oxtails and sweetbreads to pajata (milk-fed calf or lamb intestines, stili filled with coagulated milk) and coratella (heart, liver, and lungs cooked together).
Guanciale salt-cured, air-dried pork jowl, used like pancetta
Pasta all'amatriciana sauce of tomatoes and guanciale or pancetta, tossed with bucatini
Tonnarelli cacio e pepe sauce of pecorino and black pepper with square-cut spaghetti Spaghetti alla carbonara spaghetti with eggs, pecorino romano cheese, guanciale or pancetta, and pepper
Gnocchi alla romana disk-shaped dumplings made with semolina flour
Abbacchio milk-fed lamb, often served roasted or stewed
Saltimbocca veal cutlets, layered with sage and prosciutto
Coda alla vaccinara braised oxtails
Artichokes tender local specimens are prepared in a variety of ways, including alla romana (braised) and alla giudia (fried)
Puntarelle type of chicory with long, jagged, arrow-shaped leaves, served as a salad with a dressing of anchovies, garlic, and olive oil
photo: Artichokes are the signature vegetable of Rome, where they liven up the table in winter and spring. They are most often fried or braised, but also star in frittatas and pasta dishes.
MAKES 4-6 SERVINGS2 tablespoons olive oil Prep Time: 40 minutes |
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Spaghetti alla Carbonara is a classic Roman pasta dish, that has become a standard on menus in Italian restaurants around the world. As with any dish that becomes this ubiquitous, many variations tend to crop up, with people adding different ingredients along the way. One addition that pops up frequently is cream. While I am not typically a staunch traditionalist, and our recipe even demonstrates this with ingredients that some may argue with, I do believe strongly, as all Romans would agree, that cream has no place in a real carbonara sauce. The ingredients that most agree are contained in a traditional carbonara sauce are guanciale(cured pork jowel), eggs, Pecorino Romano cheese, and freshly ground black pepper. Since, guanciale is an ingredient that is not that easy to get your hands on, pancetta is often substituted. This recipe is how my father served carbonara in his restaurant for years, and it includes shallots, white wine and chicken broth. Those ingredients may not be considered traditional, but they really do work in this dish because they enhance the dish by subtly complementing rather than taking away from the main ingredients. Heat olive oil and butter in a large sautè pan over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and pancetta and cook until the shallots are softened and translucent and the pancetta is lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wine, bring to a boil and cook until reduced by half, 1-2 minutes. Add the chicken broth, bring to a boil and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from heat while you cook the pasta Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add the spaghetti. Cook uncovered over high heat until al dente. Drain and add the pasta to the sautè pan and place it back over medium-high heat. Buon appetito ! |
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